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Cabin Deck Building
« Ответ #30 : 23 Июнь 2015, 09:58:14 »
Cabin Deck Building
22 Июня 2015, 18:29

Click here to read the rest of this post about Cabin Deck BuildingHi everyone!

Well, this is the Monday of all Mondays for me.  I've been off playing for the last two months, building this!

I can't tell you how much we appreciate your patience with us over the last eight weeks, as our time has been consumed with our cabin project that we did for DIY Network.  We are so thrilled to have an opportunity to share what we do with you in a new way, and can't wait ourselves to see how the show comes out.  I'll be sharing as soon as I know when it airs - probably sometime this fall.

In the meantime, I'll be sharing with you on the blog how we built the cabin, and of course, all of the furniture and project tutorials.  

I had hoped to be able to blog at night after working on the cabin during the day, but given the extreme time schedule, caring for our children, and the challenge of getting someone to put their life on pause to help us with kids, all while camping - well, let's just say I didn't think that one through to well, and something had to give.  Forgive me, please. But now that we are done with the actual building, I'll be getting back to more regular blogging.  Thank you for not giving up on me.

We are very thankful that my sister was able to come out quite a bit and take care of Hayes for us.  Without her being able to help, when she could, I would have not been able to work at all on the construction site.  

After we got all the main walls framed up on the cabin, we all wanted to start throwing timbers up.  But with the cabin now so enclosed, we decided the more sensible decision would be to add the two side decks on first, giving us somewhere to work and move materials into the cabin.  

I had designed two decks on either side of the cabin, both running the full width of the cabin (24 feet) and eight feet in width.  We had decided against a deck in front because with the sloping lot, the front of the deck would be about twelve feet above the ground.  That, and I didn't want anything blocking the view of the main windows. 

This is a mountain cabin, with lots of snow, so we also decided that these decks should be covered.  We integrated the covered decks right into the timberframe design as well.

When we put in the main foundation for the cabin, we also poured concrete footings for the deck foundation.  On the cabin side, we applied ice and water shield to the plywood exterior of the cabin where the deck will connect to the cabin, and then took measurements for our ledger boards.

via Wood Magazine


For those of you that aren't deck builders, the ledger is the board that ties the deck into the structure.  

We attached the ledger boards directly to the cabin.  For now with just nails to hold it up (we'll go back later with some really big screws).

So once the ledger is in, we can start adding the joist brackets.

First, we marked the placement of all the joists. 

Using a big nailgun made attaching the brackets much faster.

We only attached the brackets on one side.  After the joist is dropped in, we will then secure the second side.

That's why the brackets look a little out in the above photo.  I promise, this story does have a happy ending.

So once we got all of the brackets on the ledger board, we are ready to move to the beam side of the deck.

Over the upright posts that come up from the concrete footings, we need to add a beam that spans the entire length of the deck, with the joists sitting on top of the beam.

To get the right width for our beams to fit in the upright brackets, we made our beams out of 2x boards (sized in width for our deck) with plywood sandwiched in between.  Kinda like you'd make a window header.

After cutting the upright beams off level, the beam we just made is screwed to brackets attached to the uprights.  We temporarily cross brace to keep the uprights square to the cabin.

Ready to start addin the joists that tie into the brackets on the ledger and over top of the beam!


The joists just drop right into the brackets, and sit directly on the beam.

We did have a little challenge though -

The joists that we had were pretty rough and in consistent in width, so we ended up having to notch a few of the ends down on some of the wider width boards.

It's always nice to just be able to grab your material and work with it, but there's always a work around when things aren't working out, and out here at the cabin site, its not like you an just run back to the store and get new boards.

Now that fits perfect, with the tops of the ledger and joist flush.

The brackets are then attached on the loose side to the ledger, and also the brackets are nailed to the joists.

Once the joists were all in, it really started looking like a deck!

We also added a few bigger beams in between the joists where the covered deck posts sit.

And toenailed the joists to the beams to keep them in place.

Finally, the rim joists are added to the sides and outside to finish the deck framing.  

And more screws are added to tie the ledger board into the floor framing of the cabin.

We've got two people working on the deck framing and it took a few hours to get to this point.  

My favorite part of any project is that point when you start putting the finishing layer on.  Whether that's the paint on a piece of furniture, the flooring over a subfloor, or the siding on, I just love getting to that stage.  Yay, we are ready for decking!

For these decks, I definitely didn't want to go with a composite, because I wanted to cabin to be rustic and full of natural materials.  So we opted for a Alaskan Cedar, harvested from southeastern Alaska.

Since there is alot of snow and dirt at the cabin site, we did a larger gap between the boards - 1/2" - hoping some of the mess falls through the cracks.

We used stainless steel outdoor deck screws for attaching the deck boards.  

Some of the boards were not as straight as we'd like, so we did have to wrestle with a few of them to keep the gaps consistent.  Having pieces of 1/2" plywood to use as spacers really helped guide us.

Along the wall, above the ledger board, we added metal flashing to help water drain off the cabin and over the ledger board.  The decking goes on top of the flashing.

Here's how the deck looks today -

Although I would have loved to start working on the timberframe sooner, it ended up being a good idea to do the decks first.  Throughout the building process, the decks were huge in having a flat level surface for working off of.

We'll get to that timberframe soon enough!

XO Ana + Family





Alaska Lake Cabin      

Источник: Ana-White.com


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Reclaimed Wood Rolling Shelf
« Ответ #31 : 29 Июнь 2015, 07:56:54 »
Reclaimed Wood Rolling Shelf
24 Июня 2015, 20:34

Hi there!  I'm so excited today to get to share with you the very first of the furniture plans for our Alaska lake cabin!!!

You'll have to watch the show when it airs on DIY Network to see the whole room, and how all the pieces fit in, but I'm so thrilled to be able to share the individual plans with you before it airs.  Yipee!

After building the cabin, we ended up with quite a bit of scrap wood leftover.  We had to over-order on materials since the cabin is so remote.  Being out a 2x4 means an entire day of driving to go get another one.  

So we decided to build all of the furniture from the leftover wood.  For each piece of furniture, we would go down to the scrap wood pile, figure out what we had left in material, and make something out of it.  By the time we got to building a pantry in the kitchen, there wasn't much left, espeically wider width boards, but we did have some rough cut 2x4s leftover from the exterior siding.

I've always loved this piece from Restoration Hardware (and there's lots more similar styles made by different companies)

Not that they would ship to remote Alaska, and even if they would, $2500 is way out of my budget.  So here's my opportunity to build and use and love it!

Built for less than $50!!!  Pretty much all of the budget was spent on hardware and casters and screws.  This project was built by Ross, a good friend of ours that helped out on the cabin.

Very funny Ross.

I built mine out of rough cut Alaska Sitka Spruce to get this texture on the wood.  To get rid of the splinters, I used a sander with 120 grit sandpaper over top of the rough cut. This left the saw marks, but made the final finish smooth to the touch.

Rough cut lumber is availabe at local saw mills, and is often considerably cheaper than kiln dried lumber.  Of course, if you can find salvaged wood or reclaimed wood, that would even be better.  And using good old 2x4 boards would work too, but you may not get this same texture in your wood.

For the hardware, I used metal caster wheels, corner brackets and EMT pipe, all spray painted black with Rustoleum Spray paint in black.  The wood was stained using Varathane Early American.

I'll be using this shelf as a pantry in the kitchen.  A few random baskets (striped totes are from Target) and it's one of my favorite pieces in the cabin!

So your turn now!!!  Plans follow, enjoy!

XO Ana

Click here to read the rest of this post about Reclaimed Wood Rolling ShelfAlaska Lake CabinBookshelvesBeginnerfarmhouseIndustrialBedroomCraftroomdining roomkitchenliving roomNursery and Babyofficestorage and organization      

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Fold Down Serving Station with Home Depot DIHWorshop
« Ответ #32 : 29 Июнь 2015, 07:56:55 »
Fold Down Serving Station with Home Depot DIHWorshop
26 Июня 2015, 19:37

Click here to read the rest of this post about Fold Down Serving Station with Home Depot DIHWorshopHappy Friday Woodmakers!!!

Thanks all for the support for June's Do-It-Herself Workshops that I hosted for the Home Depot!

A special thank you to the Anchorage, Alaska store for letting me be part of such a fun evening!  We all had a blast and can't wait for the next workshop!

For those of you who weren't able to make the Home Depot DIHWorkshop this month, but loved the project -

I'm pretty excited to share with you today how to build it at home too!

This one is really easy -

You'll need about 10 feet of 1x6 boards.  Just cut into six pieces (per cut list below)

Apply glue at all joints (very important since we are stapling)

Then just staple all the boards together.

And I got it all wrong in the video - I actually used Varathane Dark Walnut for the stain.

For the hinges, I ended up deciding to place on the outside, on the bottom (project is upside down backwards here).  I did this because when closed, the front covers the entire project.  The tradeoff is when the project is open, the bottom shelf is not level with the fold out portion.  The other option is to cut your front 3/4" less in size (18" x 24") and hinge on from inside.

I also changed things up a bit and placed my chain supports on the outside - I redid the chain shown on the upper right photo so both are on the outside.  The reason for this is when closed, the chain hits the small shelf.  If you used perhaps smaller chain, wire, or s 1x4 for the shelf, you wouldn't have this issue.

Then I just used L brackets to attach to the wall - I recommend four, one in each corner, for optimal stability.

For the closure, I added a hook and eye to the top by predrilling holes and screwing the hardware in.

The results are very sturdy and functional!  I love it!

I also put together a quick video that you can watch of all the steps too -

And of course, the detailed plans are below (click read more if this is the homepage).  Hope all this information helps if you are building this project.

Share when you build - add #DIHWORKSHOP to your post so we can find it!

XO Ana


PS - Want to see lots of other modified version by other bloggers?  Go here!


DeskshelvesStarter ProjectsCottagefarmhouseRusticOutdoor      

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Building our Cabin - Timber Framing for Upstairs Loft
« Ответ #33 : 30 Июнь 2015, 08:17:38 »
Building our Cabin - Timber Framing for Upstairs Loft
29 Июня 2015, 16:40

Click here to read the rest of this post about Building our Cabin - Timber Framing for Upstairs Loft

Hello and Happy Monday!!!

For those of you new here or haven't been following along, from mid May to mid June of this year, we built a cabin in remote Alaska for DIY Network.  Now that we have completed the cabin, and aren't working such extreme hours, we have been sharing the build process here on the blog.  You can read all the posts here.

We wanted our cabin to be special and unique, so we decided to integate a timberframe roof system into a conventionally framed wall system.  We've got the main walls framed, and we precut the timberframe ourselves earlier in the spring at home.

So finally, after months of prepping, it's time to start adding the timbers to the cabin!

The first portion of timbers will be the floor framing for the upstairs loft.  If you look closely, you can see little brown dots on tops of the beams - this is how the timbers are attached with screws, and will be hidden by the upstairs floor.

We already hauled all the timbers in on sleds, pulled by snow machines.  This is much more ideal than using an ATV for a couple of reasons - snow is much smoother and cleaner than a dirt trail.  For those of you with eagle eyes, the beams on this sled are the valley rafters, to be installed when we do the roof system.

This here is the floor package, all ready to be installed.  We've got everything numbered and organized, so hopefully things go like Lincoln logs.

Except these Lincoln logs weigh hundreds of pounds.

We had everything staged on the frozen lake.  To get the timbers to the cabin, we pulled them up with the snow machine sled as close as we could get, and then manually carried them inside the cabin.

When we framed up the cabin walls, we placed pockets in the framing for the timbers to sit in the walls.  

A crane or boom truck would have been nice here, but since we are remote, this is how we put the timbers up.  

Once side at a time,

One beam at a time.  This is the very first beam for the cabin in!  This beam will support the upstairs loft floor.

To tie all the beams in, we have a center "pole" that goes all the way up to the main ridge.  It's close to 16 feet tall.

This one wasn't so much as heavy as it was awkward and top heavy.

Thanks goodness for a calm day.  Since this beam is a finished product, we did not want to nail bracing to it - as that nail hole would be there forever. There was a certain amount of stress as we hurried to get the other loft floor timbers in to tie in the main pole.  If that main pole went, the walls are just tied in with bracing at this point, so it could do major damage to the cabin.  Or set us back weeks if we damage the beam itself and have to re-cut a replacement.  And we won't even discuss someone getting injured while working remote.

Back home when we precut the timbers, we had debated whether or not to predrill the fastening holes (hidden on the unexposed sides of the beams).   We should have, because we stood there and held up the main support pole, while the beams were predrilled first with a larger bit (sized for the timber screw heads),

And then a smaller sized bit, but much longer for passing through the timber.

The floor beam rafter sits in pockets on the side beam and the pole,

And then gets screwed in with a timber screw, sized anywhere from 8" to 16" long, depending on the size of the beams.

Once we got two of the beams up, we can breath a little sign of relief, but the pole is only held in place with the two screws, on the two beams.  It could definitely fall to either unsupported side without too much convincing. So despite it getting late, we are forced to get the two other beams in tonight before leaving the job site.

While Jacob tied in the second beam, Matt and Ross are already working on the third beam.

The third beam was heavy, but manageable, but just wouldn't go in.  We tried the sledge hammer, but since the walls aren't fully tied in yet, that didn't work - the entire cabin structure would just move every time you hit it.  Then we tried ratchet straps - which did help - but in the end, we had to trim a little off the tenon to get it to fit in.  

This is our first time working with a timber frame, so we learned alot, and the old saying is true - education is not cheap.  

Now we just have the fourth beam to tie in.

I was adamant in the design to not have a post support under the main beam, wanting the cabin to be open from the living area to the dining area.  But this meant we had to integrate a large glulam beam into the timbers for structural support.

This beam is a beast.

I tried to pick up my end just to manuever it back at the garage.  I couldn't even budge just one end to scoot it over.

These guys are quite a bit stronger than me though.  But you knew that.

This one is a little tricky because not only do you have to lift it, but you have to pull it into the main pole, and line up the tenon with the mortise cut into the main pole.


Big sign of relief.

Until we realized we'd need to take a little off the tenon to get the beam to fit in it's pocket.

I think this beam we only did twice.  Next time, when it's a big heavy beam, we'll definitly be cutting the tenon a little smaller to make fitting just a little easier.

It was a very exciting moment to have the entire first floor loft framing done!  The view from up in the loft is incredible, and the beams were stunning from underneath.  Although putting this floor system in was anyting but easy, it was definitely worth it.  You do get what you pay for, don't you?

Thanks for reading and being part of our cabin build!  Will be sharing next how we put lights in the beams and then we are on to getting that roof system done!

XO Ana + Crew

Alaska Lake Cabin

Источник: Ana-White.com


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Hiding Electrical in Beams
« Ответ #34 : 02 Июль 2015, 08:50:48 »
Hiding Electrical in Beams
1 Июля 2015, 18:29

Click here to read the rest of this post about Hiding Electrical in BeamsSo we got our loft floor beams up, are you ready for the next step?

One of the big reasons I wanted to add a timberframe to our cabin was I loved the wood ceilings with beams supporting tongue and groove.

And the really cool thing is the upper floor flooring is also the lower floor ceiling.  We will be using 1-1/2" thick locally grown and milled Alaska white spruce for the loft flooring, and as we put it down, it will also be the finished ceiling for the lower floor.

But the next step is not putting the flooring down.  

There's two big drawbacks to doing a floor/ceiling system like this.  The first is there is no insulation from noise, so rowdy kids running around upstairs is very audible downstairs.  Not a big issue in this cabin where the entire upstairs loft is open anyways, but something to possibly consider when building a home with more enclosed and formal spaces.

The second big issue is utilities and lighting.  In a normal, framed floor system, utilities can just be hidden between the joists.  But on this ceiling, everything is exposed.  You can box things in, but you will loose your authentic wood ceiling when you do.

Since we don't have a bathroom upstairs and no ventilation or heat systems to conceal in this cabin, the big challenge is electrical.  Specifically the downstairs ceiling lights.

In this cabin, I plan to do most of the lighting in the walls.  I did not want to clutter the ceiling with lights hanging everywhere, distracting from the beautiful timber work that we hand cut -

But there were certain spots, like the dining room, that you just have to have a hanging ceiling light.  I used a couple of sawhorses (plans here) to create the shape and size of a dining table to figure where the light needs to go.  This isn't one of those times where you can make a mistake.  We are about to cut right into that beam, and there's no going back.  A mistake means getting a new beam.

Once I figured out where the light should go in the beam above the table, we traced out shallow ceiling boxes.

Then we set our router to match the depth of the shallow ceiling box.

So now for the hole for the wire -

Through the beam, we drilled a hole.  

Then we hand routered out the box.  Hand routering is hard enough - try upside down, with sawdust flying, while standing on sawhorses.  

The box fits inside the beam perfectly.

But now what about up top?  How do we hide the wire?

Up top, we used the router to cut a channel on the tops of the beams, that will take the wire from the light location to a wall.

Gravity may have been on our side here, but crawling along a beam using a router to cut a channel out is not easy.  I had to fight for each and every ceiling light installed in this cabin.

Once all the channels were cut, we have to thread the wire through now, because once we finish the loft floor, there's no going back.

The wires get stuffed in the channels,

And then stapled down. Note to self - don't nail the floor through the wire.

Every single light placed in the ceiling created a significant amount of very hard work.

But so worth it!

I'll have to get all these furniture plans to you soon!

XO Ana + Crew

Alaska Lake Cabin      

Источник: Ana-White.com


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Concrete and Wood X Stool/Side Table - Featuring Lady Goats
« Ответ #35 : 03 Июль 2015, 10:28:45 »
Concrete and Wood X Stool/Side Table - Featuring Lady Goats
2 Июля 2015, 18:16

It's your choice with this cool "X" design, Side Table or Bench? The mix of wood and concrete gives this project a summery outdoor feel that can't be beat! Lady Goats has a nice tutorial to build your own.

via Stedila Design

Based on her inspiration picture, she hit a Grand Slam, dont you think? Swing by Lady Goats for some other super summer projects along with this one to make your patio complete!



Click here to read the rest of this post about Concrete and Wood X Stool/Side Table - Featuring Lady GoatsSide Tables$20 - $50BeginnerRusticOutdoor      

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2x4 Truss Table for Alaska Lake Cabin
« Ответ #36 : 07 Июль 2015, 08:07:53 »
2x4 Truss Table for Alaska Lake Cabin
6 Июля 2015, 19:32

Hello, Happy Monday!

We hope you had a particularly awesome Independance Day weekend!

Do you remember the family that we helped convert their garage into a master suite for HGTV last year?  We met up with them this weekend as they were passing through our area, and spent some time out at the lake.  The kids played in the water well into the night, not caring that the water was freezing cold.  

We then all went on to spend a day at our cabin.  By this time all of our phones had died - so no pictures - I know, I already had to face Grandma about that one.  Please don't be as hard on me.

We've been done building our cabin for about two weeks, and have spent much of that time just cleaning up, putting away tools, and recovering physically.  It was so nice to just relax and enjoy our hard work.

One of my favorite projects in the cabin is this dining room table -

The table is made from leftover 2x4s and 2x6 tongue and groove from the cabin build.  I had originally wanted to use 4x4s for a beam table like this one,

But we did not have any 4x4s leftover.

So I went with a design using the 2x4s on edge.  

This did complicate things quite a bit - you'll need a tablesaw to bevel the top of the legs where it meets the table, and the bottoms of the legs are double beveled (all this is outlined in the plans), but definitely worth the extra effort!

I really love the simple base that leaves plenty of room for seating.  

It's nice to not have an apron to give you a little extra legroom as you sit on the benches (those plans I'll get to you real soon too!)

One of my favorite details is the lag screws that we used to attach 2x2s to finish out the ends -

I was a little skeptical before staining -

But after a coat of my favorite stain, Early American by Rustoleum (or Varathane, it's the same stuff)

Serious love!

So, what do you think?  Want this table too?  I'm hooking you up with the plans below (if this is the homepage you have to click "Read More" below).

Thanks so much!

XO Ana


PS - For a simpler design, check out this beginner truss table plan here!

And the matching bench plans here.


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Hand Building a Timberframe Shed Deck Roof
« Ответ #37 : 09 Июль 2015, 08:56:03 »
Hand Building a Timberframe Shed Deck Roof
8 Июля 2015, 20:47

Click here to read the rest of this post about Hand Building a Timberframe Shed Deck RoofHi there!  Thank you for following along on our cabin build process!

A little while back, I posted about how we built the decks for the cabin -

As you can see, this is definitely a deck that should be covered.  Our cabin is in the mountains, so several feet of snow each winter can be expected.

Knowing this, from the beginning, I designed covered decks into the cabin plans.  You can go back and add covered decks, but it's always easiest if you plan for them from the beginning.

I also felt the covered decks added to the design by making the cabin more balanced.  That, and our 24x30 cabin looks huge when you add the decks on the sides.  Outdoor spaces should never be overlooked or underdesigned.

My favorite of the covered decks is the north deck, with the simple shed roof.  I know the front porch has a much fancier roof line (and I'll be showing you soon how we made that too), but the simple design of the back deck steals my heart.  

These photos just don't do it justice - I wish you could see it in person!

And there's something about the lower roofline (as opposed to the tall cathedral height of the front deck) that makes you feel warm and cozy all over, and just want to hang out and relax.  It's also cooler and provides more shade.  

We'll get to the front deck soon, and it's definitely a statment making entryway, but today, I want to share with you how we built the timberframe shed roof over the back deck.  

When we framed up the walls for the cabin, on the north wall we notched in a 2x8 where the shed roof will tie into the wall.

When we handcut the timberframe for the cabin, we put together the support wall for the shed roof out of timbers.

The final step in framing the shed roof is to stack rafters also cut from 4x8 beams on top of the notched in 2x8 and the timberframe wall.  We precut the rafters at home as well.

In the garage, six weeks before we were scheduled to start building on site, we started cutting the timberframe.  The raftes go pretty quick -

The ends are just cut at the roof pitch, and birdsmouths are cut out where the rafter sits on top of the 2x8 notched into the wall and over the beam on the open side.

It's the beam wall that takes the time.

The beams are extremely heavy, especially the main beam that runs the entire length of the porch.  So just manuevering them by hand is a huge task.


In this timberframe, we will have no exposed fasteners except for wood pegs, using a mortise and tenon joinery systems.

That means tenons are cut on all the ends of the intersecting pieces and mortises notched into the beams.

The tenons are relatively easy.  You use a circular saw, set to the depth of wood you want to remove, and make cuts every 1/4" or so, and then finish the cut with a chisel.  Since you are cutting against the grain, the wood breaks off easily.  Even angled tenons like these are just a matter of marking and cutting.

It's the mortises that take the time and work.  You can buy a mortiser, but we don't have one, so we just used basic carpentry tools - a drill and a router.

We start by marking out where the mortise needs to be cut.  Since we are working with rough cut beams that can vary in width by as much as 1/8", we found the center and worked out from there using our Kreg Multi-Mark tool - that tool was invaluable for marking out the timbers.

Because wood will shrink and warp, not only are we cutting a pocket for the tenon to fit inside, but we are also removing material to embed the entire end of the intersectiong beam.  This will hide any changes in the wood at the joint, inside the beam. 

So to start, we set our drill for the depth of the tenon, plus about 1/2" -

And then drill holes where the tenon will ultimately go -

The drill bit is the same size as the tenon we will be cutting.

That removes the bulk of the material, and then we can just finish the cut with a chisel.

This part is easy because the drill takes out most of the material, and you can drill deeper than you need to.

It's the shallower cuts that are harder, since you have to take out a specific depth of material.

We tried cutting with a circular saw like we did for the tenon, but since this time we are cutting with the grain, when we went to chisel out the wood, it didn't give at all.  So we purchased a large router with a bit, and went that route.  That worked alot better.

Then the cut can just be finished up with a chisel.

We used a special corner chisel to clean the corners up.

On this particular pocket, we need to also take out the bottom portion at an angle to allow the cross brace to fit inside.

The best way to do this that we found was to cut a block of wood at the desired angle and use it as a guide to chisel out the pocket.

Taking the pockets out was very time consuming and labor intensive,

This one especially.

We fit all the joints for the porches in the garage, numbering each one and custom cutting until each fit perfectly.  We figured it would be much more sensible to do this in the garage, than in the field, working remote, outdoors in the Alaska weather.

It took a bit of fitting, chiseling, re-fitting -

Finally they fit square!

It was a few weeks between when we cut and when we started assembling, so were were nervous when it was time to start errecting the porch timbers on the project site.  Will they still fit?  Did the wood warp or dry on us?

All that extra work in the garage definitely paid off.  The pieces fit together like Lincoln logs!

I can't believe I don't have a photo of the back deck all put together (I got called away on baby duty and the next thing you know the porch was up -

But what we did was assemble the entire "wall" upside down, an then flip it over and place it in position.

We then added temporary bracing to the top, tied into cleats added to the exterior framed walls, to hold the timber wall in place so we can start setting rafters.

Then it was just a matter of hauling rafters out to the deck,

Up a ladder,

Into position on one end,

All the way on top,

And then in position on the wall and beam.

And that's it.  Each rafter is tied in with screws hidden on the tops.

It was exciting seeing the progress of the roof happening so fast.  That's the thing about timber frame - it's alot of work up front, but pretty much instant gratification on site.  This really worked well for us, since we could do most of the work in a heated garage, leaving just assembly for field work out in the elements.

Can you see why this little shed roof is one of my favorites?  Someday, I'm going to do a pergola like this roof!  

And here's what the deck looks like today.

Easy? No.  Worth it?  A thousand times yes.

Thanks so much for reading and following along on our cabin building journey!

XO Ana + Crew



Alaska Lake Cabin      

Источник: Ana-White.com


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Elmer's Wall Organizer with Chalkboard, Pinboard, Mail Bin and Hooks
« Ответ #38 : 11 Июль 2015, 10:02:51 »
Elmer's Wall Organizer with Chalkboard, Pinboard, Mail Bin and Hooks
10 Июля 2015, 18:23

Hi everyone, happy Friday!

I know summer is still in full swing, and we've been lazy lately, spending a little extra time cuddling kids and enjoying summer nights with the endless sun up here in Alaska, after the past couple of months of working such long hours on our cabin.  But I can't help but feel anxious about the coming school year, and the ever present need for better organization around our home.  Kids and mail - they sure do create alot of paper mess, don't they? 

So I spent a couple hours in the garage, making this -

It's a simple little wall organizer, made from just two 1x2 boards (about $3) and a 24" x 48" (about $7) 1/4" thick project panel.  Not a bad $10 project, right?  

This is how I made the project -

I'm thrilled to be working with my favorite glue company this year, Elmer's!!!  I've been using Elmer's on woodworking projects from the beginning, and their glue has never failed me.  This project I did for Elmer's, and their growing collection of DIY projects, so check it out here!



PS - If you love those framed gallery prints, check this tutorial out for the smaller ones, and this video tutorial out for the larger ones.


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2x4 Truss Benches for Alaska Lake Cabin
« Ответ #39 : 14 Июль 2015, 08:34:41 »
2x4 Truss Benches for Alaska Lake Cabin
13 Июля 2015, 20:39

Hi everyone!  Greetings from our cabin today!



We've headed south to do some fishing and take some family time before I take off to Atlanta for Haven Conference later this week.



I'm going to cry like a baby when they drop me off at the airport, all by myself.  The kids will be fine with Dad ... it's me that I'm not so sure about.


I'm writing this post to you today on this bench -



This bench pairs with this 2x4 truss style dining table -



I love this bench because it is long enough to fit a whole family on.


But with the splayed end legs, this bench will not tip over on you.  Yet the seat width is narrow enough that you can easily step over it to sit at the table (if you are lucky enough to be able to find a place at the middle of the table). 


To support the extra long width of this bench, I added the center leg.  I love how it adds character and strength, but not bulk to the center of the bench.  It's nice that there are only full legs to manuever around on the ends.



I was inspired by the Wells Bench from Pottery Barn, loving the simple lines and the cross support. 

But needed something longer, and had to use 2x4s (because that's what was leftover from building the cabin).  



I drew up this design (and plans follow for it), but in our mad rush to build all the furniture for the cabin in two days, I forgot to add the cross supports.



We kinda love it simple, so never went back and added the cross supports.  But you can!


For the finish, I used Varathane Early American in one step Stain + Poly -



This is my new favorite finish, ever. Not only is it a one step stain and poly that goes on with a brush, and cleans up with water -



But the way that it goes on is why I'm madly in love.  The finish is very vintage, hand brushed, aged stain, with inset areas like joints and knots pooling the stain and organically darkening, with brush strokes subtly visible.  I used the satin sheen, it is gorgeous! If you are looking for a quick and easy stained finish that has a distressed and aged feel, this is your ticket.  


For those of you with eagle eyes, yes, we did run out of lag bolts for the bench ends.


You know the drill by now - no pun intended - I'm hooking you up with the free plans following (click read more below if this is the home page).  Just please share if you build because we all can't wait to see how your bench turns out too!


XO Ana






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Faux Oar or Paddles
« Ответ #40 : 16 Июль 2015, 07:50:14 »
Faux Oar or Paddles
15 Июля 2015, 19:42

Click here to read the rest of this post about Faux Oar or PaddlesHi there!!!

Thank you so much for all the love on the dining benches I made for our cabin!

Who commented "bench smench .... those oars?"  I had to chuckle at you because I kinda agree - the oars are where it's at!

Can you believe that after I built the oars - before they were finished - I almost threw them out?  They were not so pretty.  So not pretty that I had decided to scrap them and did not even bother taking a photo of them!

But after I stained them, using the same one step poly and stain I used on the benches,

Varathane Stain + Poly in Early American (can I also mention that this stuff cleans up with soap and water?!?) -

And then I found the perfect space for them, in this little area between the closet door and the corner of the room.  

I LOVE these paddles!  I had wanted to put some faux paddles on the wall, but didn't want something that looked new or too theme-ish - these handmade oars do the trick!

I used exactly one 1x2 (1$1.00) and one 1x3 ($1.50) - counting the little bit of glue and stain you'll need to, this project is so inexpensive too!

Some other ideas are to hang horizontal and add hooks, or even keep vertical and add key hooks.

I'm sharing a quick video here on how I made it -

And of course, the step by step plans are below (click Read More below if this is the homepage).

Always happy to hook you up!

Thanks so much!

XO Ana

Alaska Lake CabinWall ArtUnder $20Starter ProjectsClassicCottagefarmhouseRusticBathroomBedroomdining roomentry wayKids and Toysliving roomNursery and Baby      

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Learn Sketchup Live with me on Periscope!
« Ответ #41 : 19 Июль 2015, 11:49:01 »
Learn Sketchup Live with me on Periscope!
18 Июля 2015, 13:55

Click here to read the rest of this post about Learn Sketchup Live with me on Periscope!Hello friends, from Atlanta today!!!

As you know, I'm off hanging out with hundreds of other DIY bloggers from around the country, at Haven Conference, this weekend, in Atlanta.  

Yesterday was such a fun day!

My first session was with the Home Depot DIH Workshops, we made this tray!  I know it's a simple project, but I'd like to do a video soon on how to notch the 1/4" plywood into the bottom with a circular saw, because I really liked how this tray was put together.  

Alot of beautiful trays were made in this class, and I was shocked at the creativity of everyone!  I especially loved the tiled trays, so you can put hot items in the tray!  This herringbone tile one was made by Joy's Life, isn't it beautiful?

We will definitely have to do this sometime!

Probably the awesomest, funnest thing that has happened is Jamison from The Rouge Engineer let Jaime from That's My Letter and Jen Woodhouse and I give him a hand prepping for his session. Seriously, Disneyland for woodmakers.  

I was so honored to be in the company of such hardworking, talented, humble and kind people.  These three are the real deal, they are even better in person, if you don't already follow them, make sure you do that right now.

Okay, now for the REAL reason I snuck off to my room to write you -

I'm doing a session today (as in a couple of hours!) with Build Something that will be about helping bloggers create better plans. We'll be going over design principles and giving tips on what to include when sharing a plan.  I will be giving a quick demo on how to use Sketchup too!!!

I know alot of you who couldn't make it to Haven want to learn sketchup too.  Just because you aren't at Haven doesn't mean you can't join in on the fun though.  I will be sharing the Sketchup Demo live on Periscope on today around 1PM EST.  

Here's how you can watch live and join in on the conversation.

1. Download Periscope on to your phone.

2. Follow me on Periscope.  To do this, open Periscope on your phone, click on the people icon at the lower right corner of the screen, and search "knockoffwood" - Ana White should pop up.  Follow me.

3. Have your phone on you on Saturday around 1PM EST - you'll get a notification that I'm doing a live video on Periscope.  You can join in and comment and ask questions from Periscope.

See you soon!!!




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Timberframe Front Porch for Alaska Lake Cabin
« Ответ #42 : 21 Июль 2015, 08:55:14 »
Timberframe Front Porch for Alaska Lake Cabin
20 Июля 2015, 02:21

Click here to read the rest of this post about Timberframe Front Porch for Alaska Lake CabinHello, Jacob here today.

Ana's still traveling, making the most of her trip to Atlanta by taking a few days to film video for Ryobi.

The kids have been doing suprisingly well, especially the baby.  But we will all be happy to see mom in a couple of days.  Maybe we will take a few days off and head down to the cabin.

One of my favorite parts of our cabin is the front porch with it's gabled roof.

Not only does it give the cabin a grand enterance,

It's also very functional, providing cover from rain and shedding snow off the front porch.

Next time we take photos we will have to turn the lights on in the ceiling so it's not so dark and you can see better.  

Building this gable front porch was not easy or quick, but it is something that most anyone with general carpentry skills and a willingness to work can do.

It's a pretty simple structure - just two upright beams, bridged by the main beam with cross supports.  From there a center upright supports the main ridge.  Then it's just the rafters and their support beams.


Here's the main support beam with the two uprights and cross supports.  It's almost identical to the back porch, expect shorter (and no center support because it is shorter).

From there we can tie in beams that support the lower end of the rafter.  On the cabin wall side, they are just attached to the cabin itself.


Then up from there at the center with a support and a ridge beam.

Everything is joined together by mortise and tenons, locked in place with oak pegs.  So no exposed fasteners anywhere in the beam work.

Finally the rafters are placed on top and screwed from the top.  The screws will be hidden by the roof build up later on.

We cut and prepped all of the beams back home before hauling out to the cabin site.  I can't tell you why, but we did have to redo an entire beam on site.  You'll have to watch this fall on DIY Network ...

So here's the new beam -

The beams were all rough cut since I couldn't find a mill in Alaska that could plane this big of a beam. And we couldn't justifly investing in a big planer for this one job, so I ended up buying a hand planer.  This thing is a beast.  It weighs about 40 pounds and you have to do three passes on three sides, per beam.  It is a wood eating machine that does it's job, but you'll be tired and sore by the end of the day.

The beam we had to redo needed a mortise drilled out.  I just drilled holes to remove most of the material.

Then took a corner chisel to clean up the corners and square the mortises up.  Then I cleaned the rest of the wood out with a regular chisel.  These motises aren't so bad - you can make them a little deeper and the drill bits take care of most of the material.

Like we did on the back porch, we set all the beams for the outer supports together first, upside down.  The beams lock together when holes are drilled through the joint, grabbing the tenon embedded in the beam, and an oak peg is pounded into the drilled hole.

Here's the outer support all assembled.  We don't have heavy equipment out here, so we used a pulley to help us pull this all into place.  

Once the upright beams were in place, we nailed a cleat to the top of the main outer beam and secured it to the wall.  Then we added the upright in the center of the main beam.  It is mortised and tenoned into the main beam.


Next we hauled the ridge up through the cabin, shoved it up on the loft floor, and then threaded it out over the deck.  It was not light.

But thankfully, the rafters are.  Most of the cabin timberframe is rafters.  There's just a handful of the beams that weigh a ton, but once you get them up, the rafters fly.  We will do a post very soon on the main cabin rafters and beams to show our fellow timbergeeks how we do that.

I'm getting a little ahead here, but the next step is to put tongue and groove up on top of the rafters.  This way when you look up, the main ceiling is beautiful woodwork.

After that goes up, we built up the roof to allow for insulation and waterproofing.  We will do a post on that soon too.

Easy? No.  Doable? Certainly.  Worth it?  Ask me in a few more weeks.

Thanks for reading!  Jacob


Alaska Lake Cabin      

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Large Porch Bench - Alaska Lake Cabin
« Ответ #43 : 23 Июль 2015, 08:19:57 »
Large Porch Bench - Alaska Lake Cabin
22 Июля 2015, 22:30

Hello!  Ana here today, I finally made it home a couple of hours ago.

Of the four of us, I can tell you with more than a little bit of embarrassment that I fared by far the worst on this trip.  The baby didn't even realize I was gone, big sister said I could have been gone another week.  The hubs was glad to get some help with the kids ... but me ... man, I need to figure something out, because I'm lost without my family.  

Especially when they are having this much fun while I'm gone!

I've got suitcases to unpack, laundry to do, and piles to work to catch up on after being gone, but I did promise you that I would get you plans for this bench that we made for our cabin front porch.

It's a pretty easy project to do - but I need to warn you, it is HUGE!!!  And sturdy.  The kind of furniture that one would find at a remote Alaska cabin.

Definitely the most difficult part was adding the Xs.  And painting.  You are smarter than me and would paint all the pieces first though.

The paint I used was Rustoleum Chalked in Aged Gray.

I love that Rustoleum has a line of chalk style paint and has hand picked "in" colors, so you don't have to spend all day at the paint counter trying to decide between seventeen grays with different bases and undertones. And then have it mixed. 

We used quite a bit of the Chalked paints in the off the shelf colors in the cabin, so be on the lookout for other colors too.

There is also a nice variety of colors that you can tint.  I'd love to try out the Raspberry and the Deep Navy.  Who are we kidding here ... I'd love to try out every single one of these colors!!!

Just remember when you use the chalked paint, you do need to add a clear top coat as well.

Well, I could stay and chat all day, but as any mom who left for a week knows, there are literally piles of work for me to do.  

I think I'll tackle the laundry first.

Thanks so much for your patience with me while I was gone.  Happy to be home and back to blogging!  Missed you!

Plans follow (if this is the homepage click READ MORE below).


XO Ana



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Finishing up the Timberframe on our Alaska Lake Cabin
« Ответ #44 : 26 Июль 2015, 07:04:14 »
Finishing up the Timberframe on our Alaska Lake Cabin
24 Июля 2015, 19:33

Click here to read the rest of this post about Finishing up the Timberframe on our Alaska Lake CabinWe've been done building our cabin for a month now, and are finally back to full rested.  That was quite an experience, and a whirlwind of long hours and back breaking work.

Why, then, could I be itching for another project after seeing all these photos???

Hey, we are all a little bit crazy, right?

In this post, I will show you how we put up the main rafters for the cabin, and finished up all the timber work.  This was my absolute favorite part (besides the furniture, but that's a given) of building this cabin, because this was the step where the cabin took it's final shape.

We filmed this step for DIY Network, so I won't be giving away all the fun in this post.  I don't want to ruin the show for you!  You'll have to tune in sometime this fall to watch how we managed by hand to get these giant beams up the hill and upstairs into the cabin.  I'll give you a hint - there was no crane or boom truck.

The first of the main ridge beams extends from the front of the cabin and sits on the upright post in the middle of the cabin.  

It's a scarf joint.  I still can't believe that Jacob cut this scarf joint as his first ever scarf cut on his first ever timberframe project.  We don't give the guy enough credit here.  He's pretty awesome. I'm always learning new techniques and tricks from him.

So one half of the scarf joint is in place.  We've of course dry fit everything when we handcut the timberframe back home.  But over the course of a couple of weeks, and bringing the beams in and out of the garage, we are a little concerned that the beams may have warped, twisted, or behaved as wood generally does.  I love working with wood because it is a natural material that is beautiful and easy to work with.  But that said, it doesn't always stay put or do what you say.

I guess we will find out. 

Think of this as a giant 3D wood puzzle - and the pieces weigh hundreds of pounds, and you have to stand on a balance beam or the top of a ladder while you put it together.

It better fit.


Sometimes everything is a battle.  But every once in a while, everything works out perfectly.  This was one of those rare moments.  The scarf joint fit perfectly together.

This is a huge sign of relief because this joint will be very obvious inside the cabin.  


On top of the scarf joint goes the valley rafters.  It is difficult to see in this photo but the valley rafters were incredibly complicated and time consuming to cut.  Anyone ever cut a valley rafter?  Tell us that taking an entire day to cut them is not unreasonable.  Think of it like the most complicated compound miter that you could ever imagine, with mortise and tenons on the bottom and sides for connecting to the other beams, and then you have to V groove out the top for the roof system ... and notch at angles for all the jack rafters, and then chisel down the tails to match the other rafters.  

That's the reason for the big smile.


You all are carpenters.  You understand and appreciate this.


The ridge beams were the beasts.  They took the time to cut.  They broke our backs hauling them into place and setting them.  

There were only a handful of ridge beams.  The main portion of the roof is rafters.


Those are just cut at angles at the top and bottom, with birdsmouths cut where they sit on top of the walls and ridges.  They are just screwed from the top into the beams and walls.



Even the jack rafters that tie into the valley rafters were pretty simple.


We did have to do some fudging to get the rafters all to line up.  Here at the top, the sum of all your errors will show up.  If your walls were a little high or low, or out of square, if your ridge beams were a little twisted or off - you'll know here when you go to tie in your rafters.  Some of our rafters fit perfect.  Some were off as much as 3/8".  We did have to custom fit a few of the rafters to make it all look good on the inside.



But all in all, the rafters went up better than expected, and faster than anticipated.  


The last step is the rafters for the overhangs on the great room gables.



We have to add the decorative supports that are screwed directly to the exterior walls.  So we prepped the walls by adding a moisture barrier where the beams will tie in.  You'll also notice we've built temporary scaffolding on the upper window so we can work off a platform instead of ladders.



The supports were put together on the ground.  We've gotten smarter at this point and started not only predrilling holes but starting our screws on the ground.



These supports are very heavy but that's not the big issue.  It's that the weight is at the top, so they are very top heavy and difficult to manuever.



Once the supports are put in place, timber screws are used to tie into the walls. These supports were a major pain to craft and install.



And then the rafters can go on top.



The rafters are screwed to the beams with timber screws.



This is the very last rafter!



And it doesn't fit quite right .....



Nothing a little hand saw can't fix though.



And that's it!  The rafters are done!  The cabin has taken shape, and we are that much closer to having the roof shedding water.


Thanks so much for following along on our cabin build!  It's been fun to share with you!


XO Ana + Crew

Alaska Lake Cabin      

Источник: Ana-White.com